Showing posts with label Mehrauli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mehrauli. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

do gaz zamīn bhī na milī


On May 10th 1857, the sepoys of Meerut regiment revolted against the British and started marching towards Delhi, massacring hundreds en route. Armed groups from several other outposts quit their barracks and trooped across the northern Indian summer with a single aim of forcing the Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar to be their leader and fight against the British.   

The first war of Indian independence was born. 


The 87 year old emperor dithered, hesitated , but in the end offered his stately authority to the uprising. Chaos and savage blood shed ensued, only  to be matched later  by the brutality of the British forces which, after initial setbacks regrouped and pounded the walled city of Delhi with vengeful bestiality. 
Most of the royal family members were either executed (it is said that heads of two of his sons were presented by the British to the emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar ) or sent to jail. The emperor himself was caught and exiled to Burma (now Myanmar) . 


The last emperor of India had always dreamt of being buried among his family members within the Zafar Mahal complex in Mehrauli. Instead he died a very ordinary death and the British hurriedly buried him in an unmarked grave somewhere in Burma.  
The vacant space that the last emperor of India dreamed remains till date just that, a vacant space.


A lover of ghazals and a poet himself, Bahadur Shah Zafar is said to have written the ghazal lagta nahi ye dil mera (as sung by Mohd Rafi here) while in exile in Burma.


kitna he bad-naseeb
zafar dafn ke liye
do gaz zameen bhi na mili
ku-e-yar men 



"How unfortunate is Zafar! For his burial 
Not even two yards of land were to be 
had, in the land of his beloved"








                                          PS:
                                           (excerpt from William Dalrymple's The Last Mughal)



Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Walking through time




 It's like a time capsule. Or more of a time cocktail, mixed and sprayed all over the 200 acre landscape. 

Remnants from the Slave dynasty of 13th century? You have the tomb of Balban. 
Architectural details of Mughal dynsaty? Graves and tombs spread all over the campus.
The British? Of course you cant miss Sir Thomas Metcalf and his 'Dilkush'.

And the irreverently ubiquitous romantic inscriptions documented by present day Dilliwallah for his sweetheart on the structures in which time stands frozen.  

All this , tucked secretly under the green cover beside the more famous Qutb Minar. 

This is Mehrauli Archeological Park for you. 



Rajon Ki Baoli. 


This step well  is  believed to have been constructed by Daulat Khan during the reign of Sikander Lodi in 1516.


Few masons have been using this step well and hence the name Rajon ki Baoli. 



Details from structures adjoining the baoli















Ruins..






inheritors...



Tomb of Quli Khan





Inside view of Quli Khan's tomb





.... to be continued.